If You Think You’ve Done Mexico… Think Again

I don’t think so, honey… that you’ve “done Mexico.”

Like Italy or Japan, Mexico rewards travelers who keep going back and going deeper. And if you want to understand just how much this country contains, there is no better place to start than its capital.

Mexico City (aka CDMX for “Ciudad de México”) is theee perfect fall/winter escape for my fellow northeast travelers. Direct flight from New York. Excellent value for major global cities. And a climate that becomes particularly appealing right around the time January in the Northeast starts doing what it does best: making everyone deeply miserable...

My mother Karen – agency owner, travel extraordinaire, the person responsible for my lifelong obsession with good hotels – and I went on a mother-son trip to Mexico City back in November 2024. And I certainly have a lot to say about our time there… good thing I have a blog!

The city itself

What immediately struck us about the city was how green it is – something we definitely weren’t expecting from one of the largest metropolitan areas in the Americas.

You will be hard-pressed to find a street that isn’t draped with trees and flowers. And as it turns out, this is not an accident. In the 1990s, air pollution in CDMX got so bad that the city was widely cited as one of the most polluted in the world. The government was forced to act, launching aggressive environmental reforms – one of which was a campaign called “A Tree for Every Family,” through which more than 1.8 million saplings were planted across the city’s districts. Today, those efforts are visible on almost every block, giving the city a quality that is genuinely rare: the feeling of nature and metropolis coexisting, rather than competing.

That said… the sidewalks have had a harder time of it. Tree roots push through the pavement in every direction, and it is very much worth looking down as you wander (My mom and I contributed generously to the city’s tripping statistics during our daily promenades). But rather than cut the trees down for cleaner pavement, a cultural preference prevailed: keep the canopy, embrace the cracks. Some residents have even begun making art of it – Xomatok, a Peruvian contemporary artist, painted the fractured sidewalks of CDMX into something worth stopping and smiling for.

Xomatok’s rainbow sidewalks of CDMX

These imperfections are part of why the city feels so human. There’s a beauty in cities that are pristine and orderly – Tokyo comes to mind immediately. But there’s a different kind of beauty in places that are alive in ways you can’t fully anticipate – Marrakech certainly comes to mind, and now of course, Mexico City.

Architecturally, the city may also catch you off guard. I’ll go out on a limb and guess that when most people think of Mexico, Parisian elegance is not the first thing that comes to mind. In CDMX, you would be wrong!

Porfirio Díaz

Before Porfirio Díaz – a controversial authoritarian who promised order – rose to power, Mexico had spent much of the 19th century mired in war, foreign intervention, and political instability. Díaz was determined to present the country as modern and attractive to foreign investment.

As a well-known Francophile, he looked to Paris as his model! The influence is everywhere. Wide, tree-lined boulevards that evoke the Champs-Élysées. Wrought-iron balconies that could have been lifted straight from Haussmann’s Paris.

Echoes of Art Deco Paris

And then you walk a few blocks, and the city shifts entirely. Condesa, Roma Norte, Polanco – each neighborhood has its own distinct personality. That quality is what keeps people coming back. You can spend a week in CDMX and feel like you’ve visited several different cities.

One more thing worth saying before we get any further: Mexico City’s growing popularity with foreign visitors and remote workers has brought real tension around rising costs and displacement in certain neighborhoods. It’s a conversation worth understanding rather than skipping. The best way to travel anywhere is to support locally-owned businesses, approach the city with genuine curiosity, and spend your money in ways that benefit the community that built it. Tourism done thoughtfully is absolutely a positive force. Mexico City is one of the most welcoming cities we’ve visited anywhere – and it deserves that kind of respect.

And then there’s food.

It would be impossible to talk about Mexico City without talking about what may be its greatest asset: the food.

We say this as a family that has been fortunate to travel quite a bit: Mexico City has one of the best food scenes we’ve experienced anywhere.

What makes it special is the range. You can have a world-class tasting menu one night, then eat from a tiny taco stand on the sidewalk the next afternoon and feel equally thrilled by both. While some cities do fine dining brilliantly and others do casual food brilliantly, Mexico City has both. And for anyone accustomed to New York prices, the value here will shock you. You can eat extraordinarily well and somehow still come home with a full wallet.

scenes from our favorite meals across CDMX

Quick list of restaurant recs:

1. Contramar – if you go to only one restaurant, let it be this one. The fish tacos are ahhh-mazing. Reserve ahead of time!
2. Taverna – a chic spot housed in a beautifully converted old home, with trees growing right through the dining room. Full of old charm with modern design.
3. Pujol – a 2-star Michelin-starred institution with near-legendary status in the city.
4. La Bonvi – the gourmet taco spot, particularly famous for the spicy tuna tostada.

And of course the sweet treats…

I need to quickly shout out two establishments that are on every Mexico City guide for a reason.

Panadería Rosetta is something of an institution now. The story goes that chef Elena Reygadas opened Rosetta as a restaurant, but guests were becoming as obsessed with the pre-meal bread as they were with the food. People started showing up in the mornings just to buy loaves to take home. And just like that, a bakery was born. What we loved here is how unique the pastries are, from guava croissants to tarragon breads, you will try many treats you’ve never had anywhere else.

Churrería El Moro is a family institution dating back to 1935, with several locations around the city. If you love churros (if you don’t, are you okay?), Mexico City is effectively a spiritual pilgrimage. Any establishment that lets you customize your chocolate pairing is, in my opinion, very serious about its craft. I appreciate professionalism.

A runner’s dream

One of my favorite things about Mexico City happens once a week.

Every Sunday morning, large stretches of Paseo de la Reforma, the city’s big central boulevard, closes entirely to cars and opens to runners, cyclists, families, dogs, and rollerbladers. New York.. take notes!

Going on a run here feels like you’ve accidentally joined a marathon.

One important note: Mexico City sits at ~7,300 ft altitude. If you’re coming from sea level, your lungs will certainly have opinions. PSA: hydrate accordingly.

HOTEL CORNER

Now for my favorite part… a list of our favorite picks for clients staying in CDMX.

Four Seasons Mexico City — Our top all-around luxury pick.

I know… I know… another Four Seasons! What can I say – we love a good Four Seasons. This one in particular is a standout. A lot of the major hotels on La Reforma are housed in high-rise buildings, which can make them feel more corporate than homey. The Four Seasons, however, sits in a European-style low-rise building in the perfect spot near the entrance of Chapultepec Park – leaning into warm Mexican design without sacrificing any of the polish Four Seasons is known for.

St. Regis Mexico City — Where Karen and I stayed.

As I mentioned, this is one of the high-rise hotels on La Reforma, and it is our favorite of that bunch. The rooms were lovely & spacious. The breakfast buffet is a standout, where you will be more than happy to linger on an open-windowed terrace sipping a horchata latte. And the gym is absolutely worth the morning workout – you can run on a treadmill with sweeping views of the city and the mountains in the distance.

El Cortés — A newer opening we are watching closely.

This Relais & Châteaux property is opening in summer 2026, and we genuinely cannot wait to experience it ourselves. The location is honestly ideal – in the heart of Roma Norte, just steps from Panadería Rosetta (catch us making a beeline every morning for the guava pastry). The rooms look simple yet elegant, and the pricing appears to be very competitive. We’ll be sharing a full update as soon as we visit – consider this one firmly on our radar.

La Valise — Charming boutique property in Roma Norte.

Directly across the street from El Cortes, you'll find this Small Luxury Hotels of the World property. With only 8 unique suites, this residential-style hotel is for you if you want to feel like a local and really settle into Mexico City life. And the detail that made me do a double take: some suites feature an indoor/outdoor concept, where the king-sized bed can actually be rolled out onto a large private terrace – so you can fall asleep under the stars (don’t know how the noise level would fare, but definitely a cool option!).

Honorable Mentions:

Las Alcobas — A boutique favorite in Polanco, and a top pick for modern design lovers. Intimate and thoughtfully designed, it has a residential feel that makes it a wonderful home base for a longer stay.

JW Marriott — A reliable, polished option also in Polanco. Great for travelers who want the consistency and amenities of a well-run larger property.

& the perfect pairing: San Miguel de Allende

With any great meal, you want the perfect wine to pair it with. The same goes for travel.

Mexico City is an incredible destination – but like any major city, it can be exhausting after a few days. Luckily, just a three-hour drive away is San Miguel de Allende, the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of CDMX. Where Mexico City wakes you up, San Miguel lets you breathe.

A UNESCO World Heritage site known for its preserved Spanish colonial architecture and vibrant arts scene, San Miguel sits in the mountains with its own wonderful hotels, food, and hiking. It is smaller, slower, and beautiful in a completely different way than the capital – and that contrast is exactly what makes the combination so good.

Where to stay in San Miguel:

Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada — The classic, gracious choice.

By now, you know how we feel about a Belmond property – and this one is no different. What makes it particularly special is how seamlessly it weaves local culture and design into every corner of the hotel. The views over the city are stunning, and the property hosts artist residencies that bring San Miguel's celebrated arts scene directly into the guest experience. Trust me – you are going to want to click the link and spend some time in the gallery. This hotel is something special.

Casa 1810 Hotel Boutique — Amazing boutique option.

A Michelin key recipient two years running, Casa 1810 sits right in the center of San Miguel and delivers something that can be hard to find: elegance and comfort without an eye-watering price tag. The reviews speak for themselves, and for travelers who want a more intimate stay without sacrificing quality, this is the one to book.

Rosewood San Miguel de Allende — The Modern Mexican Hacienda.

And then there's the Rosewood – sweeping views, impeccable landscaping, and one of the most considered color palettes I’ve seen in a hotel. The pastel reds of the exterior walls blend beautifully into the greens and florals surrounding the property, giving the whole place a painterly quality that photographs don't fully do justice to. In a similar category to the Belmond, and equally worth every penny.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this deep dive into Mexico City! For Fall 2026 or Winter 2026–27, now is a really smart time to begin planning if this is on your radar. We’d love to help you put something together.

As always, thank you for being here – and for spending a few minutes of your day with us.

Warmly, Adam